The first base very diluted acrylic color was sprayed with no problem as a light layer and let dry overnight. As seen on the pictures, the black enamel preshading lines, are visible under the first applied color setting a base for the weathering process.

As soon as the previous very diluted Life Color acrylic paint layer dried, a second (very diluted also) and later a third FS34094 "Bronze Green" (aka Life Color UA303) acrylic layer sprayed over, so the final result will become dark enough, that can be considered as into a realistic tonality & lighting color range, while the black enamel preshading lines, are still visible under the applied color layers. Minor corrections were made in 1-2 spots with a fine brush. The result was sprayed with Humbrol enamel gloss varnish coat, to prepare the surface for water transfered decals applying and washing. Once satisfied with the result, the model was sprayed with Humbrol enamel matt coat, to seal the paint, the water transfered decals and the washing results.

Keep in mind that this FDCV scale model, respresents a vehicle as it was during the early ¡90ies period, when no national markings were paint on the vehicle¢s side. Also, keep in mind, that during this specific period, the bronze plaque in honor of St. Barbara, which in the manners, customs and traditions of the Hellenic Army protects the Artillery, was not installed yet!


The WIP steps may be slow, but I prefer steady progress rather than hastily. After the Humbrol enamel matt coat dried, I had to add selectively some weather, rust & dust effects.

I found nice idea to place it on a display base, simulating a field area covered with grass. From my local store, I bought a 20x30cm polished wooden picture frame.


I add some grams of plaster powder and few drops of water with a syringe into a soft rubber cup to make the right mixture. Materials like plaster, start as a dry powder that is mixed with water to form a paste which liberates heat and then hardens. Unlike mortar and cement, plaster remains quite soft after drying and this characteristic make plaster suitable for the job. Keep in mind that adding salt into wet plaster mixture, reduce the plaster's hardening time and adding vinegar into wet plaster mixture, extend the plaster's hardening time. When the first layer of thinned plaster applied on the picture frame, a glass were pushed against the plaster to form a flat basic strong cast.


I left it few hours to get harden in order to be sure that the cast wouldn't break when I would try to cut it into desired shape. Meanwhile, I took the soft rubber cup which I used to make the plaster mixture, squized it to break the last hardened plaster left inside, so it would be easier for me to clean it afterwards and prepare it for any future mix. That's the reason this soft rubber cup were used for.


Before the plaster cast got harden, I formed the field area into the desired shape to be suitable for the FDCV scale model. I used my airbrush to paint it. After the polished wooden frame was covered with masking tape, different acrylic paint layers were applied on the plaster surface. First, mat black colour covered the area and then a dark and light earth colours, spraying from different directions and angles. Later, the field was drybrushed on selected spots using sand tones.

As for he grass & plants, I used three different ways:

• From my local hobby shop, I got different colours of static grass, empty them into a plastic box and make a mixture.

• Found into my garden perimeter, I collect few natural stuff, cut and placed into plastic box for such use.

• From my local super market, I got a small wicker broom. If you look closely, you¢ll find some very interesting stuff for scale modeling use and dioramas building.

Water based white glue for wood, which becomes transparent when it dries, is just the right for the job. So, I opened a 500 grams canister bought for 2¤ only, pick a small quantity, add just few drops of water with a syringe into a small metal container to make the right mixture and finally I applied on the desired areas to be filled with grass & plants, using a wet brush. Because the mixture is enriched with water based glue, it is easy to correct possible mistakes.


Finally, the FDCV scale model glued on the base with silicon. Final details were added. The antenna masts, the Browning M-2HB 0.50" 12.7x99mm NATO machinegun, some extra dust weathering effect, etc.

Considering that I am an aircraft scale modeler with no experience on tracked scale models, I have to say that I really enjoyed this FDCV building - no, I ma not planing to build another AFV for the following 20-30 years. As for this polyester kit, I must admit it was much easier than expected. It is noticeable, that this Greek product by White Tower Models, had never been reviewed by any Greek scale modeling magazine or Greek discussion forum!

• I would understand, if the product was newly released and not widely known to Greek modelers community, but White Tower Models continues to product & sell this 1/35 scale FDCV model, since 1990.
• I would understand, if there were a big variety of scale model kits or accessories produced by Greek hands, but as far as I know, Greek scale model kit producers are less than 3 or 4. In fact, WTM, was the first Greek kit producer, ever.
• I would understand, if the product was not detailed enough (or not accurate on scale) to be considered as acceptable, but judging by the article¢s pictures and my personal experience while WIP, this 1/35 FDCV model, is highly detailed and more accurate than most of commercial plastic injected scale models, sold on our local hobby stores.
• I would understand, if the product was very expensive and out of reach for most scale modelers budget, but the (as far as I remember) 50 euros price sounds quite logical to me.
• I would understand, if the product was not an interesting subject, but as long as the real FDCV - Fire Direction Center Vehicle is used only by the Hellenic Army, that makes it special for Greeks.
• I would understand, if there was already a much better 1/35 scale kit by Tamiya, or Dragon or else, but it is widely known that there is no complete FDCV (or the M-992 FAASV - Field Artillery Ammunition Support Vehicle version where FDCV is based on) kit available on the Worldwide market, in any form, by any producer.
• I would understand, if the product was too complicated and too difficult for the average 1/35 scale modeler to build, but as long as a rookie like me (with no experience on 1/35 scale AFV & tracked models) managed to build it and present it as you see in the above pictures, anybody could easily build it.

I hope you like the pictures:

Thank you for following this thread and I hope you enjoyed reading this article. I hope I¢ll meet all of you, right after the summer holidays on Amorgos island, where the “Big Blue” Aegean dolphins are living and having fun. Click on the first picture for video.

Regards,
Nick